The Real Deal: Secrets to Undetectable Extensions

By Lauren Margrave

If there is one salon service that’s trending right now, it’s hair extensions. More clients than ever before are realizing that the longer, thicker hair of their inner hottie is actually achievable with the help of a good brand of hair extensions and a talented stylist. “That’s me!” we hear you cry. Yes, it is, but as more salons begin to appreciate the profitability of this lucrative service, the pressure is on to stand out from the crowd by providing the most natural-looking creations possible. Here are the secrets to keeping it real and ensuring your clients’ extra hair looks as natural as their own.

First things first. To get the most natural-looking extensions, “it’s important to use a system that helps create the most natural look and feel,” says Dorian Thomas,Hairdreams National New Accounts Director. “Use 100 percent real human hair with the cuticle intact and the flattest bonds, which will lay flat and as close to the scalp as possible,” he recommends.

Dreamcatchers Educator, Katherine Lewis, agrees that to get a truly natural look, it’s imperative to work with a quality product. Then it is up to the stylist to get the color match, placement and execution exactly right. She says: “Make sure the color match is perfect, whether it’s a solid color or using multiple colors to blend and give dimension to the final look. Placement is everything, and be sure to use the appropriate amount of extensions for your client’s look, as well as their lifestyle.”

Techniques for Cutting and Styling
“Point- and slide-cutting are some of my favorite techniques to blend extensions into the natural hair,” advises Aurezu Kuhzarani, Director of Education at Hotheads Hair Extensions. “Point-cutting is ideal for shaping a soft and natural perimeter for your client’s extensions. When layering the extensions into the natural hair, use the client’s shortest layer as your guide. Take thin, vertical sections (about 1/3 of the width of the adhesive band) and slide-cut to the ends of the extensions. This creates movement within the hair and helps blend in the shortest pieces of the client’s natural hair.”

Darren Brokaw, Great Lengths USA Creative Director and Owner of J Brokaw Solutions for Hair in St. Louis, MO, agrees, noting that blending and cutting extensions should always be done using soft techniques with blending shears, razor or point-cutting. If using a razor blade, it should be a fresh one. Katherine Lewis adds, “I like to use a standard Feather blade to produce a little more texture, and make the hair look more natural. Also, framing around the front is a must! There is nothing worse than looking like “Cousin It” from the Addams Family. Layers help, as well, to give the final look more movement and make it easier for the client to style at home.”

When it comes to styling, as long as you have a quality extension product, the possibilities are endless. “Since Invisi-Tab Hair Extensions are made with virgin European hair, they can be styled the same way a client would style her own hair,” explains Ron King, Creative Director of Invisi-Tab Hair Extensions from House of European Hair. “Always thoroughly dry the bonds after shampooing or wetting the hair, and never apply a thermal tool directly to the bond. Use hot rollers or Velcro rollers to create a style with volume and body, and use a flat iron to create a sleek look or a more defined curl.”

Regardless of how you or your clients style extensions, don’t forget to use protection! Heat protectant products will prolong the life of extensions and maintain hair integrity.

#vanityhairextensions     www.vanityhairextensions.com www.vanityhairsalon.biz

Best Hair Extensions Salon Utah Orem Salt Lake City Saint George 1105 S Orem Blvd Orem Utah 84058 800-266-9568

Pieces of Perfection

Is your client unimpressed with her natural locks? No problem. Today's refined hairpieces make instant transformation possible.

It used to be that if one was born with thin tresses or chopped off her waist-length mane in a precipitous post-breakup fit of self-assertion, options were limited to cursing genetics or praying for miraculous overnight growth. But recent hair extension innovations have changed the game, making It possible for every pixie to boast flowing Lady Godiva locks (witness Beyoncé’s recent head-turning transformation from shorn waif to bobbed beauty). "Clients young as 20 and old as 80 are in on the craze, along with cancer survivors and those suffering medical-related stress loss," says Vikki Parman, CEO of Oi Biase Hair USA. Agrees Ultratress Top Business Development Executive Rhonda McCarthy, "Most women can benefit from extensions-whether their hair is thinning or they simply want added length and volume." Extensions provide instant fullness, yet not all are created equal. Adhesion methods differ, as do the hair types used.

Remy hair is collected from a single human source. Ponytails are cut precisely to keep the hair filaments running in a uniform direction. This looks natural, feels silky and prevents breakage. Most Remy products are acquired in India. "European hair is overly fragile, while Chinese offerings are too thick, making both unfit for the special applications required," explains Stephanie Veissier, Co-Owner of So.Cap, Original USA Hair Extensions. Non-Remy hair, on the other hand, comes from multiple donors. Ergo the roots don't align, so it's treated in a hydrochloric acid bath to strip away cuticles-and, consequently, moisture. This results in brittle bristles prone to tangling. Other options exist, too. Technological advancements have improved the quality of synthetic fibers, making them lightweight and durable, so products such as International Hair Goods' Micro Point Solutions are perfect for those suffering from hair thinning and loss.

Once devised, hairpieces can be fastened via various techniques. Strand-by-strand bonding is the most labor-intensive process {prep for up to three hours in a stylist's chair), and thus the priciest. But such extensions last four to six months, depending on the rate of natural hair growth. And-when done right-they're virtually undetectable. Warm fusion bonding uses pliers to heat the keratin in each faux lock and attach it to small scalp sections. Nearly identical is cold fusion bonding, which employs ultrasonic waves to form the keratin connection.

Weft extensions are both cost-friendlier and quicker to apply, wherein a track several inches long is secured one row at a time, rather than strand by strand. "Application can take five minutes for several samples and less than an hour to complete the full head," marvels Nikki Hamilton, Platinum Seamless Sales and Marketing Director. Wefts sewn into braided cornrows were once popular, but these days, polyurethane tape is often employed, as it binds snugly. "Clients further love this system because it eliminates the risk of burning occasionally associated with bonding," says Okyo Sthair, Sales Director at Simplicity Hair Extensions. The cons? Weft extensions are more visible to the human eye, and allergic glue reactions have been reported. Snap-on pieces require the least commitment and can lend lustrous thickness to any waning mane in seconds. "Our four-clip system functions like a barrette set," says Top Secret Haircessory CEO Denise Rossouw, who explains that these prodUCts allow women to dramatically change up their styles in mere moments. "In less than a minute, your client can look like a different person!" Different in design yet equally simple to employ is the Halo Couture custom-fit microfilament wire that snuggles atop heads. Each boasts more than 100 grams of Remy hair, yet weighs only 3.5 ounces. "If you can wear a bra, you can wear our heavenly extension," laughs Founder Tina Owens. Fine-fibered ladies may find fault with clip-ins, as they tend to peek through natural hair, but teasing 'dos both above and below the clip or wire will provide needed coverage. Finally, for those who crave maximum concealment, Gemtress is a viable option, "Our wigs are synonymous with comfort and style," shares McCarthy, who is also part of the Gemtress team. "Each product requires a special certification for dealing with medical hair-loss clients." Proving that, regardless of need, there exists a perfect hairpiece for every individual. - By FRANCESCA MOISIN

#vanityhairextensions     www.vanityhairextensions.com     www.vanityhairsalon.biz

Best Hair Extensions Utah Orem Salt Lake City Saint George 1105 S Orem Blvd Orem Utah 84058 800-266-9568